Selecting your rabbit's breed is probably the most important decision you will make concerning your rabbits. My advice is to read as much as you can before deciding which breed you like the most. You will probably find that most producers raise only either New Zealands, Californians, or a combination of the two. Most producers have purebred stock of each of the two breeds, and crossbreed them to produce more vigorous young that grow more quickly. They can also breed the purebred adults, and sell the purebred offspring as breeders. When you raise rabbits you'll have fresh meat any time you choose,not to mention wen you raise rabbits, you'll raise some breeding stock to sell. Now all you do is put a sign out place and ad or two or even better place an ad on craigs list.
New Zealand
New Zealands come in different colours, such as black, red, and the most popular for meat purposes, white. These weigh from 10-13 pounds when mature. They are known for their ability to grow market-ready fryers (4-5 pounds) by 8 weeks of age. Their average litter size is 8-10 bunnies. The breed was developed in the USA and is well-proportioned and has a full, well-muscled body type, and prominently veined ears.
Californian
This is another good meat breed, also developed in the USA. It comes in only one colour-white with black ears, nose, feet and tail. At maturity, this breed weighs 9-10 pounds.The average litter size is 6-8. The body is rather plump, but fine-boned. Breeders often cross New Zealand and Californians for their vigorous hybrid offspring.
Champagne D'Argent
This is one of the oldest breeds of rabbits. It is completely black when born, but gradually turns silver as it matures. It is medium length, with well-developed hind-quarters. They weigh about 10-15 pounds at maturity.
Florida White
Although this rabbit weighs only 4-6 pounds at maturity, it is better suited to the fryer market. This breed is becoming more popular for home meat production, and crossbreeding. The fur is white with good density and texture, and they have a compact, meaty body, short neck, and small head. This breed was developed in the USA as well.You can also raise rabbits for profit as we do here at back to basics.
FEEDING YOUR RABBIT
Providing good feed is an integral part of raising rabbit. Rabbits can consume many different types of feedstuff, but the best way to go is to feed commercial pellets and good quality timothy/alfalfa hay. Refrain from feeding your rabbit cabbage and lettuce, as this will upset the balance of good bacteria in their stomach and cause them to get diarrhea. If you can't resist and your rabbit gets a good dose of diarrhea, give him/her wild rasberry canes. The diarrhea should clear up within 24 hours. Rabbits should get pellets that contain at least 16% fibre.
How much to feed is an important thing to know. If you give your rabbit too much, it will become fat, and may have problems breeding, and if a doe becomes too fat, it is likely that she will have troubles when kindling. If you give them too little feed, then they will, obviously, become too skinny and be more prone to other diseases. Here is a list of the amount of feed you should give your rabbit. Remember though, each rabbit is an individual, and these are guidelines only. You should learn your rabbit's needs, and adjust its feed accordingly. These are daily amounts. The first amount is for medium breeds, and the third for large breeds.
Bucks 3-6 oz. 4-9 oz.
Does 6 oz. 9 oz.
Does,Bred 1-15 days 6 oz. 9 oz
Does,Bred 16-30 days 7-8oz. 10-11 oz.
Doe,+ litter 10 oz. 12 oz. (Litter size-6-8 young, one week old)
Doe,+ litter 18 oz. 24 oz. (Litter size-6-8 young, one month old)
Doe,+ litter 28 oz. 36 oz. (Litter size-6-8 young,6-8 weeks old)
Young, weaned rabbit 3-6 oz. 6-9 oz.
The best way to tell if your rabbit is getting enough feed is to stroke its backbone regularly. If the bumps of your rabbit's backbone feel sharp and pointed, increase its feed; if you can feel the bumps, but they feel rounded, you are giving the right amount; if you feel no bumps at all, then decrease your rabbit's intake. I recommend a weekly check, just to make sure. So now you know a little about how to raise rabbits. Lets find out more.
I just did away with the bottles,to much work. I placed a 55 galbarrel on the outside of the building,complete with lid.Then I ran pvc pipe all along the back of the cages,complete with watering nipples in each cage, so now all I do is fill the tank every other day or so. Usually I do that when I'm feeding or checking on them.I'll have pictures to post when I get a minute.